Date: September 15, 2009 From: Washington Examiner Scion: Dupont Circle's new kid on the block for Asian fusionBy: Jeff Dufour Examiner Columnist September 15, 2009 |
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 Scion,
the new eatery that occupies the former Cafe Trope space near Dupont
Circle, is a family affair. Sister owners Joanne and Julie Liu cut their
teeth in the restaurant business at their parents' restaurant, Jenny's
Asian fusion on the Southwest Waterfront.
Now, after enjoying successful careers of their own, they've returned to the restaurant biz with Scion, a bright and cheerful space where the menu borrows equally from America and Asian traditions. The scene: On the street level, you'll find an enclosed sidewalk atrium. Downstairs things get a bit cozier, as blond wood and burnt-orange walls and modern art dominate the scheme. The pour: The wine list here is a modest affair, spanning about 25 selections, most under $40 a bottle. Far more impressive is the beer selection, which can boast Annapolis' Fordham Helles Lager, Charlottesville's Star Hill Amber and Belgium's Hoegaarden on tap. The specialty cocktails are also worth a go. My favorite: The "In the Weeds," which combines Jeremiah Weeds Peach Tea Vodka and pink lemonade. The taste: The menu here is a curious mix of American regional and Asian influences. That's not the problem, as some of the dishes are compellingly creative. The problem is a maddeningly inconsistent execution. A Reuben sandwich is stuffed with lobster rather than the typical corned beef. Too bad the lobster meat was dry and lacking in any flavor. The addition of wasabi to a Caesar salad got my attention, which was then squandered by an insipid dressing. A rockfish dish came with a scintillating, Thai-inspired ginger-basil sauce, but the dish was done in by the fish itself -- again dry and wan. Even grilled peaches with cream were so underripe and undercooked, a steak knife would have been helpful to saw through them. The touch: The servers are pleasant and accommodating, the type who are apt to ask where you're from and strike up a conversation. Don't miss: The sensational Kobe beef burger, topped with fried pickles and sauteed onions. The fries, spiked with garlic and rosemary, aren't any slouch, either. Why you won't go: Tables in the dining room can be awfully close together. For date night, you're better off on the sidewalk level or at the bar. Why you will go: The chance to sit in the aforementioned entry-level atrium, especially when the temperature drops. It's as close as you can get to eating outside, without feeling the chill. |
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If you go Scion Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday Prices: Appetizers $4.50 to $8.95; entrees $9.95 to $22.95 Bottom line: A newcomer with great location and
an interesting concept, which nevertheless needs to develop some more
consistency in the kitchen. |
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